Orkney - The islands that changed me

Photo Credits: Chris Hulkes - St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall, Orkney Islands, Scotland.

Just off the northernmost tip of Scotland, visible from the mainland, lies the archipelago of Orkney, home to some of the most unique experiences I’ve had on my travels, from 5,000-year-old Neolithic villages to WWII shipwrecks and the world’s shortest commercial flight.

What I wasn’t prepared for was just how friendly, generous, and laid-back Orcadian people are. I have never been anywhere so open and welcoming. Be prepared, in the best possible way - to have hour-long conversations in shops, bars, and ferry terminals. The people here are simply wonderful.

Photo Credits: Chris Hulkes - Whitehall Village in the Orkney Islands, Scotland.

After collecting my rental car from the airport, I had a couple of hours before my accommodation was ready. I parked up intending to walk around Kirkwall and get my bearings, but as soon as I saw the Bishop’s Palace and St Magnus Cathedral, I was drawn right in. With over 800 years of Norse and Scottish history, it feels completely different from any cathedral I’ve visited before. The low February sunlight provided a spectacular opportunity to photograph the palace ruins.

As a whisky enthusiast, I discovered that Orkney is home to two outstanding distilleries: Highland Park and Scapa. Scapa’s tasting room - The Noust, is probably one of the most spectacular whisky tasting rooms in the world, with a roof designed like the hull of a boat, a tabletop carved with waves, and sweeping views across Scapa Flow.

Nestled in the Bay of Skaill sits Skara Brae, one of the best-preserved Neolithic villages in Europe. The visitor centre and exhibition explain what life was like here and how people lived. Then you step outside and stand before a settlement that existed for 600 years, 5,000 years ago, yet it is still recognisable as a home. There are beds, stone shelves, and spaces for storage.

Getting around the islands is surprisingly straightforward, with the Churchill Barriers linking several islands by road and an extensive ferry network connecting the others. Whichever way you travel, spectacular views are guaranteed.

Photo Credits: Chris Hulkes - Earl's Palace in Kirkwall, Orkney, Scotland.

My last couple of trips have leaned towards a more contrarian style of travel, visiting places during quieter times of year. Seeing Orkney stripped back, without cruise ships full of tourists, allowed it to reveal its true self: quiet, laid-back, friendly, welcoming, and incredibly charming.

I can understand why so many people I spoke to said they had visited and never left. I’m fortunate to have travelled quite extensively, and I can honestly say there is something about these islands and the people who call them home, that gets under your skin.

Author - Chris Hulkes 

@myworldtravellervibes